When we look back at the greatest athletes we see a similar pattern. It is an amazing ability to adapt. Adapting doesn’t just mean switching stance while riding a wave or running for a touchdown on a hurt leg, its more than that. The best athletes are the ones that see them selves as more than just ONE dimensional. You saw it with Bo Jackson, a HULK of a football player with the speed -finesse – and IQ to also play baseball (along with many other sports) so well that he became an all star in both the NFL and MLB. When you put all your eggs in one basket alot of the time you come up short. Like an all state football player who goes to college and just wants to play ball but then gets injured..and now all he has is a bad leg and little experience in anything else. Being well rounded is the key to longevity….and well longevity is key.
(BO KNOWS -nike campaign- BO SURFS!!)
When it comes to the ocean athletes this idea adapting is taken to another level. On any given day you have most likely have to choose between at a short or longboard. But for some Watermen/women they have endless possibilities when they see a body of water. One great example of well rounded in GERRY LOPEZ. He is a certified legend of the short board world but he didnt stop there. He surfed all sizes of boards -went on to do SUP surf – board shaping and design- SUP racing-diving for fish -canoe-and snowboarding. To take it even one step further you can look at someone like Dave Kalama who has literally every water sport in his repertoire. (Windsurf -kiting-tow in -foil-SUP- surf-canoe-diving-OC1 -kayak -prone paddling.) The ocean is so full of variables that its always a guessing game. Its a beauty and a beast. BEING able to adapt can change your life and not adapting can take your life away.
Duke Kahanamoku always said that “the best surfer is the guy who is having the most fun.” Having options when it comes to daily activities is proving to be more and more beneficial (more fun too) every time I step back and think about it. Switching up the little things in my day to day life to break the routine/the grind has opened alot of doors for me. Each water sport I’ve participated in has all helped one another being a good canoe paddler helps my SUP and being a good SUP surfer helped my regular prone surfing.
Recently I adopted the motto BE LIKE WATER. It comes from the great BRUCE LEE –
” Don’t get set into one form, adapt it and build your own, and let it grow, be like water. Empty your mind, be formless, shapeless — like water. Now you put water in a cup, it becomes the cup; You put water into a bottle it becomes the bottle; You put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot.Water can flow – water can crash. ”
BE WATER MY FRIENDS!