When we look back at the greatest athletes we see a similar pattern. It is an amazing ability to adapt. Adapting doesn’t just mean switching stance while riding a wave or running for a touchdown on a hurt leg, its more than that. The best athletes are the ones that see them selves as more than just ONE dimensional. You saw it with Bo Jackson, a HULK of a football player with the speed -finesse – and IQ to also play baseball (along with many other sports) so well that he became an all star in both the NFL and MLB. When you put all your eggs in one basket alot of the time you come up short. Like an all state football player who goes to college and just wants to play ball but then gets injured..and now all he has is a bad leg and little experience in anything else. Being well rounded is the key to longevity….and well longevity is key.

(BO KNOWS -nike campaign- BO SURFS!!)

When it comes to the ocean athletes this idea adapting is taken to another level. On any given day you have most likely have to choose between at a  short or longboard. But for some Watermen/women they have endless possibilities when they see a body of water. One great example of well rounded in GERRY LOPEZ. He is a certified legend of the short board world but he didnt stop there. He surfed all sizes of boards -went on to do SUP surf – board shaping and design- SUP racing-diving for fish -canoe-and snowboarding. To take it even one step further you can look at someone like Dave Kalama who has literally every water sport in his repertoire. (Windsurf -kiting-tow in -foil-SUP- surf-canoe-diving-OC1 -kayak -prone paddling.)  The ocean is so full of variables that its always a guessing game. Its a beauty and a beast. BEING able to adapt can change your life and not adapting can take your life away.

Duke Kahanamoku always said that “the best surfer is the guy who is having the most fun.” Having options when it comes to daily activities is proving to be more and more beneficial (more fun too) every time I step back and think about it. Switching up the little things in my day to day life to break the routine/the grind has opened alot of doors for me. Each water sport I’ve participated in has all helped one another being a good canoe paddler helps my SUP and being a good SUP surfer helped my regular prone surfing.

Recently I adopted the motto BE LIKE WATER. It comes from the great BRUCE LEE –

” Don’t get set into one form, adapt it and build your own, and let it grow, be like water. Empty your mind, be formless, shapeless — like water. Now you put water in a cup, it becomes the cup; You put water into a bottle it becomes the bottle; You put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot.Water can flow – water can crash. ” 

BE WATER MY FRIENDS!

This past week San Diego was hit by a big south swell which made for an epic couple days of summer surf. I just happen to find out that the ISA SUP surfing contest was green lighted and set to happen in Oceanside CA. With over head conditions-brutal rip currents and foaming white water the contest WAS AWESOME to watch. It became more of a chess match as the paddlers had to navigate different peaks along with where and how to paddle out. For most of the paddlers it seemed like the best rides were only may be 2 maneuvers before the wave blew up !

While watching from the beach I felt that the judging was a little more generous than I would have been but there was a few classic rides that really make SUP surfing special. It Wasn’t that the waves were crazy huge or dangerous but they were unpredictable and no matter how ell they were predicted they looked a little hard to read which left most paddlers caught inside or struggling to get back to the waves after a good ride. I havent been to a SUP surf contest and SO CAL REALLY needs more!! The amount of progression you see is so inspiring and although I can go surf every day at my local break you arent always getting to see the best riders. I love seeing people SEND IT but i also like seeing the latest and greatest in boards and paddles. And I seriously fell in love with the CAMO CUSTOM from infinity. Contests bring out the best in the wave riders and is just a overall fun time. 

With this contest I was expecting a few of the bigger name SUP surfers to come and compete but some of the main paddlers from INFINITY-NAISH -STARBOARD were all competing in SUP races. With it being summer I figured that would be the case but there is also a new group of SUP surfers sometimes I forget that the STARS of the SUP world are already 10 years deep in their careers and have other things to focus on.

(above: Jason Latham off the lip )

It led me to think what is more important in SUP… WAVES or RACING ? (this topic can go so many waves and the arguments are endless but here is just a few thoughts) When it comes to ISA and other big events for the most part SURFERS PAY FOR everything and while it is cool to represent a team or country most the time you can make more money racing/ traveling and having your sponsor front most of the fees.LETS MAKE SURF CONTESTS worth it so the best guys comeout! For me I rather see guys making as much money as they can because if I could I would so I dont blame people for missing out on certain events. MORE money and effort should be put in to getting so SOLID CONTESTS in place and it can be high performance or longboard style SUP. We have already seen the best guys(Kai lenny -Dave Kalama etc.) switch to more of a wave focus and it would be great to see more of it !

RACES will always be around and on any given weekend there is sOOO many up and down the coast of California so we need to shake things up!! As a spectator I want to see the best guys SURFING stand up as much as possible.  The racing side of the sport is in very good hands with all the new aggressive paddlers we have now. There is many debates for BOTH RACING AND WAVE RIDING but  for the core group of Americans and Hawaii paddlers I think surf should be the main focus. With so many new faces maybe the scene will shift and new people will be on top of the SUP charts.

WHAT WOULD YOU RATHER SEE THE PROS DOING ??? race or surf????!?!?!?

THE WORLD OF WAVE RIDING HAS A F@#$%%*$% PROBLEM…. & Its something you wouldn’t think existed until you’ve experienced it first hand. Its hands down absolutely the most annoying thing to deal with. If you haven’t been through it MORE POWER TO YOU but for alot of SUP surfers PURE HATE from “REAL” surfers and straight up disrespect is something you have to deal with (probably a lot). NO MATTER WHAT “rules or guidelines ” we try to follow as SUP surfers there is always someone who has a negative comment. You can just be parking your car at the local break and some short board surfer is already giving you a dirty look. In surf , line up banter is a great way to learn and make connection but when you have a SUP under your feet you almost get discredited right off the bat.

For whatever reason the SUP community doesn’t ever talk about it. Or if it gets brought up in a chat or message board it gets glossed over and people just try to “keep positive vibes” and “its not that bad”. I hate shining light on negative things but sometimes shining a light brings attention to the things that other wise would lie in the dark. There is full blown websites and clothing that protests SUPS in surfing. Literally the stupidest things i HAVE SEEN LATELY. Why are people so triggered by SUP??

I might be a little biased but I get it SUPs are a new thing “threatening” surfing but if you ask SUP surfers they dont give a damn about you !! they just want to have FUN…isnt that the point of riding waves??

THE WORST TYPE OF PERSON>>>>> Instead of worrying about themselves they immediately want to talk SHIT about a sport they probably cant do. Its such a pointless struggle to go through. At the end of the day why waste energy being pissed off when you can use some of that hat eto catch more waves that SUPers supposedly STEAL.

One of the biggest things i hear is that SUPS are dangerous….when in reality all boards are dangerous ..ESPECIALLY HUGE LONGBOARDS THAT DONT HAVE LEASHES…

THERE IS SOOOO much arguing that can go back and forth -pros and cons and all of that. The fact that anyone would yell at someone while in the water is ridiculous.

SUPs greatest ambassadors cant even escape the hate..this was the comments section from KAI LENNY SUPing THE KELLY SLATER WaVE POOL..literally days ago so this is a current problem not just old thinking…(see below)

THE SURFZONE is a magical place and is where alot of us go to zen out or have a really good time. WHen you really think about it its people on short boards and the “real ” surfers that create the static. Cutting people off or snaking waves is never OK but it is forgivable. Not enough people practice what they preach. THey wan to be all ” good vibes and aloha” but when they arent on instagram fronting they are being bullys at the beach!! SO NEXT TIME YOU ARE SURFING KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN AND HEAD ON A SWIVEL and think of ways to keep the trash and trash people out of surf and our line ups…not SUPs

This GREAT DIVIDE really seems to be one of those things that are just going to be there no matter what and realistically wont change. But i will throw this challenge to any “real” surfer …GO SUP SURF one day a week and you will have fun and you will help your surfing I swear. Why conform to one craft??? Be of the water and ride all of them.

PEEAAACEEE

PIPI MY KAULA AND I’LL LOMI YOUR SALMON

*disclaimer …NOT A PAID AD ..i use a different brand of paddle just giving props where props are due. *

In SUP there is a lot of brands that specialize in paddle production, some being QB-Kialoa- Ke Nalu…but have you heard of BLACK PROJECT ?? The company started in 2010 and has been pushing for performance in paddles fins and racing fins for SUP. Will there paddles be your next SUP related purchase.

With so many options these days for equipment it can be a bit overwhelming. Price-materials-shape-pro riders- all make a bit of an influence in our decisions. Me personally I have my favorites and pretty much stick to those when I am heading out into the ocean. For about the last 2 years I have worked at a SHOP in California that sells BLACK PROJECT paddles. From the moment I first saw them I thought they have 2 things going for them. 1 being that they are very eye catching but only have a carbon and red look to them its basic but really aesthetically pleasing. 2 they have an aggressive shape and are SUPER LIGHT.

The thing I like most is that they push for the highest quality and lightest strongest designs. Another great thing is you can specify SIZE OF BLADE-AMOUNT OF FLEX (stiff x medium x soft )  and WHICH GRIP you want and make a custom fit for you. In all of the paddles they have a very long drawn out dyhedral (if i spelleed it right) but its the spine down the middle of the blade that connect to the shaft. With this design you get a very clean and efficient stroke ..(NO MORE RAIL DINGS  LOL)  A great paddle is important because the  PADDLE IS YOUR ENGINE SO DON’T CUT CORNERS!

In the last year or so they have added Zane Schweitzer and Bernd Roediger to they’re team of paddlers so you know they are doing something right. Zane and Bernd are both high level paddlers sponsored by other board companies and are normally required to use those brands paddles and fins but BLACK PROJECT equipment has been so good that they use them in racing -surfing and touring equipment anyway.

In Racing every pound …even ounce counts if you are in a paddle battle with the guy next to you. So when i looked in to the line up of paddles BP offers I saw that the race paddles are only 375 grams….and with them being 100 percent carbon  (unlike your local sup package deal with a carbon facade)  they truly give you a jump on the competition.

With paddles I see a lot of people flock to a brand simply because a paddler that is somewhat famous uses them. With BP i have already seen a massive growth in popularity. It will only grow with more average joes wanting to progress and more pros wanting that competitive edge.

CHECK THESE PADDLES OUT !

Blackprojectsup.com

(all pictures- BLackprojectsup.com) 

REVIEW Rating System

Middle finger: sucked

thumbs up: just good but has to improve

Shaka: Great board

Double Shaka: Amazing Loved it 

I ride a lot of different boards and have dabbled in pretty much every shape or feature that production boards have offered over the years. Recently though I have been really focused  on more of a high wave count /more laid back surf session but i still want to be able to whip a few performance turns if the waves allow it. To me I consider anything over 10 feet with the round nose a true longboard as far a SUP surfing goes.  I had the chance to get my hands on a JP Australia Longboard in the carbon pro construction and it did not disappoint.

Coming in at 19 POUNDS !!! this thing is crazy light and very responsive. Its 149 L so you can still sit back and be comfy no matter the conditions. I paddled out on a decent sized day with waves maxing out at about 5 feet. I caught my first wave and dropped back all the way to the tail and was able to do big snappy bottom turns and was bale to get a great amont of speed out of maybe A 3 foot wave….I was REALLY surprised. I used a thruster set up on the board and it was nothing but fun. Its 4 inches thick which is more than enough flotation for any size wave. If you are a bigger guy that wants performance this is your board or a small guy who wants to be able to shred and stay dry this  this is the one.

Its is 29 inches wide but I would like to see it in a 27 … would be really fun rail to rail. The only down side for me is pricing. Brand new all carbon boards are pushing 2 grand or more and for me its just a bit shocking but it is something where you are getting exactly what you pay for.  It is a great board but it is very similar to what other companies have out and nothing stand s out CRAZY to me. OVERALL i throw this board a SHAKA  and would recommend this for the average SUP surfer who wants to get better at surfing but doesn’t want to loose out on waves.

Progression is natural and every year the sport of SUP has made giant leaps as far as wave riding goes. SUP is a great tool for catching a wave but there has always been a huge riff between SUP surfers and traditional wave riders. SUP is currently being claimed all over the map by different associations. Whether it is Canoeing -Surfing or Kayaking all of these sports/association have been trying to capitalize and lay claim to SUP. This battle for identity has really made SUP surfing get a lot of flack.

With SUP surfers getting more radical the obvious comparison will be between short boarding but SUP is so much more. In SUP we have the ability to cover distance like a canoe or kayak -Surf like a longboard and SHRED like a short board. But with that versatility lies the problem. We have such a dynamic sport that we will always be compared to other things.

SUP surfing is my favorite aspect and it is one of those things that people can just jump right into and gain confidence fast. With a fast learning curve people jump from 12 foot wave SUP to a 9 foot and smaller with out really mastering SUP and it becomes a sloppy version of something that could be beautiful. When you see Dave Kalama or guys like Brian Keaulana (people that surf all types of stuff) surf SUP they use the whole wave and engage the paddle they are very radical but aren’t on SUPs that are 7 foot they walk a fine line of PERFORMANCE LONGBOARD/ SHORTBOARD styles. This sweet spot is what I consider to be the perfect place to aim for when looking to improve SUP surfing as a whole.

I think the days of killing your self to go paddle on a board that is negative liters to weight need to be put behind us and obviously everyone will always push for smaller boards. Aesthetically when you go to short and try to mimic short board you end up looking sloppy and just throwing your tail around and don’t get the most out of each session. bump up your board dimensions a bit and do things that others aren’t PUSH for individualism  NOT COMPARISON.